Every year in the 2nd week of February I pack my sleigh and set out for a weeklong journey over the mountains from Sweden to reach the openingday of Røros winter fair in Norway. In my company I usually have 10-15 horses and 30-40 men and women who travel together. It is amazing, truly magical in so many aspects. My only regret has been how few people that are able to share the experience with me. This blogg is an attempt to give you all a glipse of magic and perhaps one day some of you will feel the urge to set out on a journey of your own...

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Monday, Only two days left, time really does fly in good company. Got up at 06:00 to get the horses ready, Breakfast at 07.00, Then packing up our belongings and getting the sleighs ready to be able to leave at 08:00. First stop will be Brekken at 10. When we turn in at the old school all the children from the school and the little little ones from the kindergarden have been rehearsing songs for weeks waiting for the swedish forbönder to arrive which we now can enjoy.

Market songs are preformed by the amazing childrens-choir!
A girl sings a solosong in Sami language, very beautiful! According to tradition, we lay down flowers at the forbonde statue that 60 years ago was given to Brekken by Tännes municipality in gratitude that they always received forbönder from Sweden well and gave them them accomodation and stables. – you can tell that the brotherhood is deeply rooted in the soul of the people here. Brekken municipality has in turn presented the museum in Funäsdalen with the gift of a statue of a milkmaid from the shielings. (…and whether it was completely intentional or not the gifts reflect what often happened on these journeys. Quite often a Swedish farmer would find a Norwegian girl to marry and bring her with him back to Sweden. Another reason why the bond is so strong across the boarder

The ceremony is carried out in respectful manor - and then what all the children have waited for, to go with the forbönder! In the context it is not just fun but a special moment! As already mentioned farmers have traveled along this road in all years, Martnan has 159 years of history. We let the younger children jump in first, the older ones have been going earlier years - and hopefully they will learn the tradition early on. The youngest are only 2-3 years. Then we drive the short distance down to the community center where coffee and waffles are served.

Turning off from the main road we prepare to cross the lake Aursunden, which mean facing ice again. The snow is deep and the track across is narrow our good friend Jon drives ahead of us with a snowmobile. He knows the lake inside and out! Everything is going well - until a horse tramples through the ice, which is often double with water in between this time of year. Loads of water gushing up and one of the ladies gets her feet wet. But we come prepared and extra boots are soon available. After a good lunch of soup and sandwiches we only have the last stretch left. I lie covered up with furs in the back of the sleigh and this day could not have have been better! under and the reindeerskinns and furs with the rhythmic trott rocking me it is eazy to doze with one eye - but only one ......

Suddenly we have arrived, Jon-Bernard will as usual receive us here, all horses in two different buildings. He works with firewood, and you cannot miss it. It is stacked in different shapes and mounds whereever I look. Piles of packed birchwood.

Some stay the night here while others go back to Vauldalen - we Aer too many to fit in the farmhouse in Billehaugen.
But the main thing is that the horses fit and we are comfortable at Jorid and Ola-Peder’s!

Tomorrow is another day - the last day – tearing up I’m afraid when our journey end at lunchtime, and many are going back home. But there will also be many happy reunions since last year's Martna with friends I haven’t seen since. But today is today, dinner is waiting, and our guests were offered the hotel's fine dining but said they would rather have dinner together with the rest of us this last night – Truly an expression of friendship! - because it is not often someone would turn down Jorids dinner!

/ Anette

Monday, February 20, 2012

Day 5 Snowstorm

Sunday, we've had a great great trip halfway through. Now three days left, and on these journeys we never know what will happen when we set out in the morning. Part of the fun! But it can bring both pleasant and less pleasant experiences.

- We started the day in the pleasant end going nicely along a snowmobiletrack down to Funäsdalen lake. The wind picked up, but the sleighs slid easily through the snow. When we approached Risnäset the church bells rang - as you have noticed if you have followed the travel journal this is a welcoming gesture and it really brings a welcoming feeling that spreads into your soul, someone is waiting for us!

I
n Funäsdalen a lot of people had gathered including our Forbonde-priest, Bo Lundmark. It was time for the morning service we always hold on Sunday mornings. It is usually held outdoors among sleighs and munching horses, while we singing the beautiful hymn "Morning between mountains". But today, we decided to keep it indoors, Risnæset is right next to the lake and the strong wind were blowing from the wrong direction. We
have time for some coffee together with the others who have met up before we continue.

Next stop - today's challenge: Hållan backen - a renowned and not always popular stretch, 3,5 km uphill climb with 100 m difference in elevation. In addition there is quite a lot of traffic between Funäsdalen and Fjällnæs/Tänndalen. Actually, we have prepaired a snowmobile track, but was advised to use the road because the conditions in the track today was not compact enough to carry the horses.

- It turned out to be a dramatic part of this journey. As usual we got out of the sleighs to ease the burden, some of us are brought up by car, even sleighs can be pulled up if they have been adjusted for it. But b
efore we were up the mountain we were hit by very strong winds and snow swirling. We waited for the long row of horses to catch up - but by then it was a fullblown snowstorm! We could not see them, the wind just grew stronger and people almost fell over. It was getting uncomfortable, mainly because of how busy the traffic is along this road especially now since this is the first weekend of the both Swedish and Norwegian winterholiday. We could not see or hear the cars when they passed and they could hardly see us. Everything was completely covered in ice and snow. Time to make some quick decisions - helping hands were called in to get all sleighs, 12 horses and 45 Forbönder on modern transportation. This is a first!

-As usual, many cars do not show any consideration, slowing down or stopping, placing both themselves and us in danger. But with hard work everything went well and we could take shelter and defrost at the Hotel in Tänndalen who were nice enough to call in a chef so that all snowmen and snow-women could get something to eat, it was absolutely impossible to go through with the planned barbecue!

- A SPECIAL THANKS TO TÄNNDALEN HOTEL FOR THEIR FLEXIBILITY AND THEIR SERVICEMINDED STAFF!

So today's trip had to be cut short, and with a relief that everything went well we could move into the former shop premises at Vauldalen hotel, owned by the Norwegian Forbönder Jorid and Ola-Peder, who every year receives all of us - both two-legged and four-legged guests.

The other Hotel guests are interested in our travels and we usually have dinner together with them. Many people want to hear what has happened and wondering about our clothing and how we do things. The dinner is something extraordinary; Rømmegrøt and fish. Not something you eat everyday, but delicious! On the sourcream-porridge you have cinnamon and sugar with fried trout on the side. Dessert is a warm and sweet fruit-soup. I end up with two talkative Norwegian ladies who are interested and ask a lot of questions. - They tell me that tomorow they have two destinations in mind, to meet us in Brekken in the morning, and then to go to Funäsdalen for shopping - not just any shopping. Systembolaget (liquor store) in Sweden is an attractive destination.

By this time it is late and we Aer tired after today's snowstorm and all that it brought. Everything from the sleighs have been taken oute and hung up to dry and the horses are warm again.

- Like I said, you never know what will happen when you set out in the morning.


/ Anette
Day 4

Today we are resting, both horses and humans. A day to look over harnesses,
equipment, repair furs and other clothes and for those who wish we are invited by Funäsdalens heritage museum to visit after lunch. We are picked up and at the museum you can wander around in the exhibitions before it is our turn to take over. The auditorium is filled with interested visitors, advertising has apparently attracted a large crowd! Some of us give short talks and information about the history of Forbönder and how our travels began in modern times, mixed with music and singing. Sven Olof Petersson is specially invited to presents his research on trade and social relations in the 1800s - something that really relates to Forbonde journeys and various markets.

Those who are not participating at the museum or staying at "home" to do repairs are driving to Røros in two cars to get our backyard in order for Tuesday's opening and the stalls we have for the stables must be set up. Done in no time at all! Reindeer skins, firewood and coffee for 5 days! Lots of boxes of miscellaneous equipment that can provide a glimpse of the forbonde culture. - only the real stuff is good enough. I get keys to the farm at the municipality, and when I enter the lovely cottage it feels like I just been out for a short while. It's really homey, small, with barely a kitchen, a room with an ironstove on the ground floor and very low ceiling, in the floor is a hatch that can be opened and you have a paved deep cellar straight down, upper floor has two rooms . No water, and only an outhouse at least it was then, in the 1700s, today we have a wc installed in the one of the outhouses. The farm has a byre with 3 stalls and is oneof Røros oldest, as authentic as it gets. The whole environment at Røros is on Unescos world heritage list, so we are humble and grateful that we may still enter and occupy these farms again for a one week each year. If only walls could talk.

On the way back to Sweden and Ljusnedal we get hit by a snowstorm over the mountains at the boarder. Yesterday the road was closed for several hours and we do not want to get stuck so we hurry back. In Ljusnedal dinner is waiting, and around the dinner table there is quite a bit of " have you heard about...? Do you remember when...? Many get up tell a story or two - or three - and we laugh so hard some of us are in tears before we crawl into bed. Ahead of us is another day back in the sleigh!

/Anette

Day 3
Friday, the last day before it's time for a day of rest. It was an early morning, breakfast at 4:30. Tonight we spent the night in Långå, and as usual the horses are accommodated in the stables of the generous family, Fahlén.
When we leave Långå we do so with the villagers warm send off, despite the early morning, torches light up the darkness along the village road, and people were waving from their windows, and many have met outside to say good bye and welcome back.

The substrate is fantastic, the sleds slide easily and we are almost euphoric when the sun begins to rise over the treetops. We cross the river and it's completely quiet and calm with

-15.5*C. Eventually we come to the first stop for horses to rest, and the morning's second cup of coffee is served by the guys in the crew! At Saxvall where we stand, it is always cold and the temperature keeps dropping.

After that, it's off again, leader Gunnar check that all is clear and we leave together, an important task when traveling with a group of horses. They are pack animals who want to stay together, and now they have been together for several days and are even more urgent to do so. If one leaves before the others, it can lead to anxiety and stress even accidents. We have to continue on the main road, so again we have escort cars ahead and behind. The weather is quite incredible when we leave the main road and follow the northern shore of the big Lossen embankment.
The way we drive has been cleared we follow the edge of Lossen, who looks a little shriveled. Leisurely enjoying the warming sun, a fantastic winter day! Some grouse flying up, and some of us also have time to see both deer and elk. Lunch is served outside in the form of hot dogs. Delicious!

At the small lake, villagers from Ljusnedal are waiting with a bonfire and reindeer bullion, coffee and sandwiches. Out on the ice, they have made a hole we can fill the buckets for the horses, there are all munching their hay and naps for a while.
The final stretch to Ljusnedal ahead. It will be an incredible tour, no wind and the temperature has gone up. We usually stay together, but when the leader takes the horse trotting then we split into different groups before we slow down again. The 12 horses in front is a powerful spectacle, one can understand that motorists startle when they see us. We really look like we have come from another time, which in a sense is an object of the trip.

We have resumed an old tradition to drive by horse and sleigh to Roros market as and forbönder did in the old days. Our outfits and sleighs, vadmal, furs, leather and skins make the impression authentic. The way we travel, slowly over several days is quite different from today's ways of travelling. - Many waves, stops and gets out to take pictures, wondering what we are up to?

When we are approaching Ljusnedal is near sunset, a spectacular view greets us with the Valley church against the pink sunset sky. We shiver a bit in the sled, listen to church bells and drive into the village.

In the evening awaits an eminent 3-course meal! Fine table setting with folded napkins – being a forbonde pretty great! We socialize, eat and generally have fun, musical entertainment in the form of Eva’s wonderful singing and a surprise delivered by Sven Olofsson in partnership with Alf Östberg. All are tired after a long day, and we all need a good night’s sleep. Soon every bed is filled with a tired forbonde falling asleep. The house is quiet, very quiet for a while. Then it starts, snoring, coughing, twisting and turning in sleeping bags but soon the peaceful sleep conquers and we can all look forward to a new day together.

/Anette

Day 2

Thursday, the first week of our journey. Today the traveljournal will focus on another aspect of the trip that might not be that visible but is infinitely important.
I will spend a day with the heroes in the background organizing all practical matters along the way. For the public, they are not very visible, but without their participation the journey would be completely different than today. For a drivers assistant like myself it is invaluable to get to see all that goes on during the day.

We get up in time to serve breakfast at. 05:00, the round for drivers and their assistants. Our guests can have breakfast slightly later. It is a miniversion of hotel breakfast with everything that you can wish for. Then everybody pack each of their belongings: bags, sleeping bags, boots, clothes, and yes ....everything that might be needed for a trip of nearly two weeks of floor accommodation. This is placed on a trailer and driven to the next place of accommodation. When the sleighs have left in the morning the crew packs up all food that is brought and does the last cleaning, toilets scrubbed, floors swept and making sure to leave everything tidy after us, we are after all a group of between 40-45 people eating and staying overnight, we are grateful for the accommodation made available to us and we would of course like to also be allowed to return next year!

Then, today's planning meeting starts: - gather all the crew! The team is usually 6-7 people and the day's work needs to be planned. - Who's driving vehicle for traffic warning when the sleighs have to be on the busy road? - An important security task that sometimes requires two persons / cars both in front and behind. Other people along the road do not always understand how to behave in relation to horses on the road and instead of slowing down they speed up to be able to pass quickly forgetting that they are dealing with living creatures here.

The crew also drives the load of hay to the next location so that we can fill up the sleighs with hay for the horses each day. The stables that we get to borrow from nice people in the villages along the way must also be checked and cleaned when we have left. If any horse for some reason need to rest the team gets transportation organized. Lunch and coffee is during the day heated / grilled and served - usually outdoors, pots and pans are brought to hungry forbönder, We do bring some food wih us in the sleighs, but 12h days can be long and cold and a warm meal is welcome. It's a huge amount of work to feed the whole bunch of us!
In the evening there is of course dinner, real home cooking in large portions, very much appreciated! There are of course dishes and preparations for next day's breakfast as well.

Tomorrow awaits a day of work in Roros – a garage is to be transformed into a stable - stall partitions are put up during each market. It is then taken apart after the market again. The stable is located in the city-center, leased from a private owner in Roros which then moves her belongings to make room. This facilitates for the horses' supervision during market week. The old farm Rasmusgården dating from the 1700s used to take in forbönder with buisness to the market and this is where we spend our days during marketweek, the backyard needs to be prepared for the market for all sorts of activities. Reindeer skins and coffeepots, cooking equipment firewood and market commodities for sale must be brought. All of our cars are driven down from Vauldalen to the accommodation in Röros to be in place when the market is over and the only thing remaing is the road home.

Everything is prepared and planned, some measures are repeated, there are routines, other things along the way may have to be resolved with great flexibility. It has been a wonderful day with this lovely bunch – Where laughter is never far away an teasing is constant, warm and heartfelt, an enjoyable experience every year. So on Saturday when we stay an extra day in Ljusnedal to rest, there are various offers available on the program but I choose to go work with the team in Roros! A great crew that takes time off from work only to brighten our journey together!
/ Anette

About Me

I am a Swedish Forbonde and archaeologist. I grew up in Klövsjö in Sweden and I am officially living in Oslo -Norway but at the moment I'm studying in Gothenburg while spending a large part of the year working in Iceland. So... home is usually defined by where my backpack last was unpacked and part of the year that is in a sleigh somewhere in the mountains between Norway and Sweden

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